Friday, February 24, 2012

February Surf

Winter is definitely the prime surf season in Southern California. Being that I've been hitting the trail runs frequently, I haven't been getting out into the water as much as I would like on my new SUP board. But I'm going to try to get out more as we head into Spring and especially Summer - when the swells flatten out and are ideal for more SUP days. I love the ocean and have a hard time imagining not living near it.


Bonus - correctly guess where each one of the masks on the wall above my board are from and win a prize. The prize will probably be just me telling you "good on ya mate", but hey, its something.

I'm probably not much fun to watch, but check out this great little video by Redondo Beach local and wandering surfer Holly Beck. She's one of my favorites. The video was shot two years ago, so it isn't from this winter. Still, you'll get the feeling for a typical dawn patrol session during California winter months.


Holly has a real strong spirit and love of surfing, diving, and all things ocean. I especially appreciate her old school take on things. If you check out Holly's blog post from early 2010, around the time of this video, you can get a sense of what I'm talking about.

I remember a time when beginners and kids stuck to the inside, the shoulder, or didn't show up at all. Priority in the lineup was based on dedication to the spot as much as surfing ability, and if the main guys in the lineup didn't know your name you wouldn't even think of paddling for a set wave. I wish it was still like that. I travel all over the world, sit on the shoulder, take the scraps, bow down to the locals. When I'm at home I take set waves.

Yeah, I'm not a fan of localism - which leaves a bad stink on the sport of surfing. But I love respect for the locals and the local spot. And while we're talking about the lineup and respect, will my fellow SUP riders please stay out of the lineup if you can't hang? Your giant 10 foot plus board is mighty dangerous to everyone else around if you aren't capable of handling the surf. Get out in the water, nobody really cares that much about what you're riding. Just be cool and show a little respect for your fellow wave riders.

~ Cheers!

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